I love appliqué quilts but I do not enjoy doing needle turn appliqué so I set out to learn how to appliqué by preparing the appliqué shapes before putting them onto my background fabric. I found using freezer paper and a glue stick a simple and fast way to accomplish my goal. I have used this method for both machine and hand appliqué with equally acceptable results, but this little explanation will be for machine appliqué.

Supplies needed to do this type of appliqué: Freezer paper, pencil, water soluble glue stick, paper scissors, fabric scissors, background fabric, fabric for the appliqué pieces, thread to match the appliqué, neutral thread for the bobbin and other basic sewing supplies.

Sewing machine requirements: Your sewing machine must have a zig zag stitch, and the stitch should have various widths. An open toe appliqué foot is also very helpful. Different models of machines have different capabilities, this explanation gives general guidelines, and you might need to consult your machine dealer or local quilt shop for more information.

Getting the applique ready: The first thing you need to do is have your appliqué drawn in reverse from the original design. (If the design is symmetrical you do not need to do this.)

Second, draw your pattern onto the dull side of the freezer paper, trace one freezer paper pattern for each piece of your appliqué design. Make sure to leave enough room between traced patterns so they can easily be cut apart.

Now cut out your traced freezer paper patterns on the drawn line. Be careful here because the finished shape of the appliqué will look like the shape that is cut out.

Moving on to the fabric: Place the shinny side of the freezer paper patterns onto the wrong side of the fabric, leaving at least 1/2" between the pattern pieces. Iron the freezer paper pattern pieces to the fabric using a dry iron set on a wool to cotton setting.

Cut out your fabric shapes adding 1 /4" turn allowance around the outside edge. This does not have to be exact; I often refer to this as "whacking out the shape".

Turning the raw edge of the appliqué onto the paper is simple but does require a bit of patience and practice. Run your glue stick along the edge of the freezer paper pattern working with just an inch or two at a time. Gently turn the raw edge onto the freezer paper following the edge. If you have inner corners or a "V" clip into the "V" almost to the bottom, leaving a few threads to turn onto the freezer paper. If there are points fold one side and glue to the paper, fold the other side on top of the first side and glue in place. Do not cut off the extra that is hanging past the point. Gently fold this onto the glued seam allowances and secure with even more glue.

Getting ready to stitch the appliqué: Attach the open toe pressure foot to the machine. Set your sewing machine to a zig zag stitch with a width of 1 and a length of 2. These are just beginning adjustments you might have to tweak the settings a bit to get the best look possible. Position the appliqués onto the background fabric, pin or use a bit of glue stick in the center of the appliqué to hold it in place. Thread the sewing machine with thread that matches the appliqué in the needle and place a neutral thread in the bobbin.

Finally the fun part, it is time to sew the appliqués in place: When sewing the appliqué to the background the needle should zig just into the edge of the appliqué and then zag off the appliqué into the background. What is happening is the zig zag stitch is running along the folded edge of the appliqué. If an appliqué piece is to be placed on top of other appliqué piece, such flowers with centers, stitch the bottom appliqué first, remove the paper from appliqué (described in next step) and then stitch the top appliqué to the bottom appliqué.

How to remove the freezer paper pattern from the appliquéd piece: Place the appliqué piece wrong side up. Cut a slit through the background on the back of the appliqué. Using a slightly wet cloth (a bit more than damp) moisten the edge of the appliqué. Slip your finger through the slit in the background and loosen the appliqué seam allowance from the freezer paper, pull the freezer out through the slit in the background. Additional moistening of the edge might be necessary so the paper will release from the appliqué.

I hope that if you are reluctant to try appliqué by machine you will give this technique a try. There are many books available on machine appliqué so stop by your local quilt shop and investigate this fun technique.

Stitchingly:
Jan

Lazy Daisy stitch, also known as detached chain stitch is a wonderful little looped stitch perfect for working small flowers.

It can be worked alone or in groups. When working this stitch, the trick is to apply a gentle amount of pressure otherwise the loop will close up.

It is also important to keep the couching stitch at the top of the loop consistent. Work a small stitch if you would like the loop to remain rounded, or work a larger stitch to give the loop a tip.

When working Lazy Daisy stitch you may find that the loop can appear twisted. This is caused from working against the direction of the thread. Watch my how to video below and I will demonstrate what I mean.

Have fun with this stitch, lazy daisy stitch is  a must to have in your embroidery stitch repertoire, it is also perfect for working leaves.

Warmly,
Lenna
www.stitchingcow.com

Running stitch is a very quick and easy hand embroidery stitch to master. It is often used to form the foundation of other stitches or it can be used on its own as an outline stitch.

Running stitch is also the stitch used for hand quilting. For best results work each stitch a uniform size, the distance between each stitch should also be uniform.

Watch my how-to video below.

Have fun working this versatile embroidery stitch.

Warmly,
Lenna
www.stitchingcow.com

Looking for some tips on how to work a perfect French knot?

A few years ago when I was teaching hand embroidery in workshops, ladies would often groan when I mentioned French knots. Seems that this stitch can cause some frustration.

The good news is that I am going to share with you some of my tips so that you can work the perfect French knot every time.

A French knot is a raised stitch that was traditionally worked with one wrap (by this I mean with one wrap of the thread around the needle).

They have a textural quality and can be used for a number of different effects. Often they are used in conjunction with other embroidery stitches or they can be worked on their own in different color combinations to form wonderful patterns and pictorial designs.

When working French knots it is important that you select the correct size needle in relation to the number of threads. If you find it difficult to pass your needle down into the fabric ,this indicates that your needle is not large enough. As a general guide a number 9-10 crewel needle is fine to use with 2-3 strands of embroidery thread.

Also keep in mind that a larger knot will look neater worked with more strands of thread rather than more wraps around the needle.

Take a few minutes to watch the video demonstration and then practice this stitch for yourself.

Discover more about how to embroider here.

Until next time.

Warmly,
Lenna
www.stitchingcow.com

Back stitch is one of the quickest and easiest of embroidery stitches to master. It is predominately used as an outline stitch and is ideal for Redwork embroidery designs.

There are two things to keep in mind when learning to back stitch. One is to aim for an even stitch length. Don’t fuss too much about the length, just find a rhythm that works for you and then be consistent so that your stitches are uniform.

The second important factor that is essential for a quality result is that the stitch is worked so that there are no gaps between stitches. This means that you need to pass the needle back down into the same hole from the previous stitch. Thankfully I have prepared a video demonstration of how this stitch is worked so that you can see exactly what I mean.

On the video I demonstrate two different techniques that you can use to sew this embroidery stitch. My advice is to try both and determine which works best for you.

Discover more about how to embroider here.

Warmly,
Lenna
www.stitchingcow.com

Your next decision comes down to the end use for your piece of embroidery. If your design will be backed by another piece of fabric or hidden with batting or framed, it is fine to use a small knot in the end of your thread. If you are embroidering onto a handkerchief or doily, where the back will be visible, it is preferable to work your ends into the back of your stitches.

But I have  a special trick to share with you that solves this dilemma. There’s no knot and no working in of ends. This technique is perfect when using 2 strands of embroidery thread and is particularly useful when working Redwork designs.

Discover my trick here:

Warmly,
Lenna
www.stitchingcow.com

See how the guide on the foot is off. For years I’ve struggled with this problem on my Janome Q6125 foot.

Last week, I decided to get rid of that silly guide once and for all. First I made sure I could buy a replacement foot, if I hated what I did. I just bent the metal entirely out of the way. The next time I see my dad, I’ll ask him to permanently cut it off for me.

Now I can see perfectly where the edge of my fabric is, and my 1/4″ seams are exact. Finally!

Last week, Bradie did a tutorial on nesting seams where she used fork pins. I love these pins! Now without that nuisance guide in the way, I can use them properly too.

Here’s a strip in progress for my postage stamp quilt.

Do you have a quilting tutorial on your blog? Add your link to the Quilter’s Daily Blog Along.

One of the challenges of learning how to embroider is knowing  where to find hand embroidery designs. If you are new to hand embroidery it is best to choose a design that is simple with only a few different stitches.

Sometimes hand embroidery designs can be discovered in the most unlikely places. The key is to be always on the look out. Most sewers tend to look in obvious places such as the local library. These can be wonderful places for finding books with hand embroidery designs in them. Most libraries offer magazines and these are also a good source.

Retail shops also offer some lovely embroidery books suited for beginners and the more advanced. They will be full of patterns and inspiration for you.

Local craft shops are another logical choice. However we shouldn’t limit ourselves to these places, inspiration for hand embroidery designs can be found all around us. We just need to look and keep our eyes open. I often find the inspiration for a new hand embroidery design in unusual places.

Kid’s coloring books are a good place to start. If you have children or grandchildren this won’t be too much of a problem, they always seem to have them strewn around their bedrooms. Alternatively you could buy some for your home reference library. They are also fabulous for finding applique patterns and the best news is that they are very inexpensive.

If you have a passion for vintage hand embroidery designs, you should keep a look out for garage sales or auctions. I have often come across the most incredible hand embroidery designs amongst boxes of old sewing supplies.

Community school and Church fairs can also be a good place to look, they often have trash and treasure stalls.

Modern technology has also brought us the internet which means we have literally hundreds of hand embroidery designs right at our fingertips. Some embroidery designs can be downloaded for free, while others can be purchased quickly and easily online in an epattern format.

Ebay has also brought buyers and sellers closer together. It’s great to think we can recycle our hand embroidery patterns so that others can use them time and time again. The lesson is to always be on the look out. Inspiring hand embroidery designs can be found everywhere, I know there is one right now waiting for you to find it!

Click here for a free hand embroidery design

Warmly,
Lenna
www.stitchingcow.com

First up is Rachel’s Pinwheel Sampler Quilt Along. The instructions will be posted once a week, for 12 or so weeks.

I’ve decided to make mine with 1930s reproduction fabrics with solid white as my background.

Instructions for the first block have been posted already. You’ll also want to check out Rachel’s half square triangle tutorial. There’s also a Flickr group where you can follow along too.

Next up is Anina’s Pinwheel Party. This will be a weekly project starting March 1st and last 13 weeks.

I’ll be using solid bright fabrics with a black background.

I’ve done very little applique, so have not committing myself to these fabulous projects (yet!).

Erin’s Florabunda Block of the Month is absolutely beyond gorgeous.

Block 1 and Block 2 have been posted already. But really, Erin has so many fabulous tutorials, I highly recommend starting at the beginning of her site with a pot of coffee. You won’t be disappointed.

My good friend Anita from the Netherlands is doing this project. Here are her first two blocks. Aren’t they beautiful.

Over on the Aurifil Buzz blog, Pat Sloan is doing a Meadow Breeze block of the month. The first block has been posted already.

Reeze is doing a Tulip Tiles block of the month. I just love this one too. Hurry and download the instructions for the first two blocks, as they will not be available forever.

What about you? Are you currently working on any Block of the Month/Week projects? What have you done in the past? Do you love them or hate them. What I find so amazing about the ones I’ve featured above, is the fabulous tutorials that go along with the projects.

Join us at the new Quilter’s Daily Blog Along. The idea is that each day a new prompt will be posted, to give you inspiration for your next blog post. On your blog, write a post using the daily prompt as a guide. Then head over to the blog along site and add a link to your post in the comments for the specific day.

Today’s prompt, from me, is Block of the Month (or Week) Quilt Alongs.

If you are new to hand embroidery I would recommend that you choose a stranded embroidery cotton, such as DMC. There are lots of different threads on the market and the choice can be overwhelming. Stranded embroidery cotton is easy to work with and comes in a huge range of colors. It is purchased in hanks.

DMC stranded cotton is made up of 6 finer strands. Your embroidery pattern will normally tell you how many starnds to use, two being the most common. It is important to match the number of strands with the right size needle. If you are having difficulty pulling the needle through your fabric, chances are you are using too many threads for the size of your needle.

Keeping your threads clean and tidy is important. Getting into good habits from the start will help to reduce tangles. It is good idea to purchase a thread box. A thread box is made up of small compartments and bobbins which are normally plastic or cardboard. Wind the embroidery thread onto a bobbin and label the bobbin with the brand of thread and the number.

This is a must. There is nothing more annoying than running out of a thread and then trying to match it.

My other tip for embroidery thread is to resist the temptation of cutting the length too long. Whilst this reduces the number of times you need to thread your needle it will increase tangles when you are working. A good rule of thumb is to measure from the tip of your fingers to your elbow.

Warmly,
Lenna
www.stitchingcow.com